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How To Install A Well Point-Of-Entry

Items Needed To Install A Well Point-Of-Entry System:

  • 5 - Ball valves, 1 - Drain valve for Wellmate "blow down" (per diagram p.2) (Dynamixer use requires no blowdown.)
  • 5/8" OD, 1/2" ID Drain Line to your floor drain distance w/ mounting clamps
  • Adequate ceiling and floor clearance for setup and every 5 years media replacement (actual system height is 5’ 0”)
  • Step Ladder if needed
  • PVC Cement & Cleaner (no CPVC or ABS primer)
  • 2” Pipe Wrench & 18” Pliers, channel lock preferrable
  • Pipe Cutter or Hacksaw & Emery Cloth (Cleaning end of pipe)
  • Propane Torch, Flux, Lead-free Solder for copper required plumbing
  • Screwdriver (3/16” Blade), Needle Nose Pliers, Funnel, & consumables (screws, teflon tape, pipe straps.)
  • Access to Floor Drain or Laundry Tub Drain, Hose Clamp
  • 110V Four way Outlet within 4 feet of electronics and 6 feet from either filter tank
  • Small Phillips Screwdriver
Flow Rates:

The Point-of-Entry System requires proper water service flow rates for satisfactory performance. Water flow rates of less than 9 gpm through the Point-of-Entry System will not allow proper backwash of the filter bed. A larger well pump or booster pump maybe required. If the media is not properly back-washed it will not break loose the contaminants. Without proper backwash the bed will slowly foul and make the media useless.

Tank Size:

The recommended size value and tank will determine the satisfactory performance or failure of the system. High water volume or flow rate requires commercial equipment.  For customers that demand calcium removal, a water softener can be used along with the Point-of- Entry system, with the softener first in-line. If system is configured with a softener, be sure not to backwash filter and softener at the same time.


Handle the filter unit with care. Damage can result if dropped or if set on sharp, uneven projections on .the floor. Do not turn the filter unit upside down.


1. All installation procedures MUST conform to local and state plumbing codes.

2. Remember that the FILTER INLET is marked with arrows. This is connected to the main water supply (i.e., from the water pump or the water meter).

3. Before installation study the existing piping system and determine the type of fittings required. 

NOTE: If the plumbing system is used to ground the electric supply, continuity should be by installing ground swaps around any nonconductive plastic piping used in this installation, It’s highly recommended to use an alternative grounding source other than the water supply. 


1. Select the location of your filter tanks with care. The installation of the Point-of-Entry should allow for easy access to the main water supply, to allow for treatment of all water at the location.

2. An accessible drain to backwash the system is required. The tanks will rinse automatically.

3. Do not install a filter in a location where freezing temperatures occur. Freezing may cause permanent damage to this type of equipment, and will void the factory warranty. .

4. Temperatures above 120F may also damage filters and will void the factory warranty. Garage installation in desert climates is okay as long as direct sunlight is avoided.

5. IMPORTANT: If installed within 20 running pipe feet of your water heater, a check valve to prevent suction of hot water back into your filter is required. Also, backpressure from an undersized drain trap can impede filter performance. The drain must be 7 GPM capable.

Well Equipment Requirements

A minimum flow rate of 10 gallons per minute is required for adequate filter rinse and backwash. Some customers will need to install a new pressure tank and or a booster pump. Bladder type tanks alone are not sufficient if there is hydrogen sulfide gas or iron is present. The Installation of a retention tank or dynamixer is important in eliminating or reducing contaminants which require additional time for complete contaminant filtration oxidation. If your well is not capable of 10 GPM, the filter will foul and require replacement. 1/2 Horse Power well pumps will not run ECOsmarte® equipment.

Tank Sizing:

Your existing pressure tank size is important. To determine if it is the correct size, check the pump capacity under load. Open a faucet nearest the pressure tank until the pump turns on. Then, measure how many seconds the pump runs until it stops. The pump rate in gallons/minute (gpm) equals the amount of water in the bucket divided by how many seconds the pump ran. Multiply the result by 60 to get the gallons per minute. Next fill a low capacity container until pump turns on again. Now, take the existing tank size in gallons and divide the gpm pump rate. If the result is less than 8, the customer needs a larger pressure tank. When a larger pressure tank is needed, take the pump gpm discharge and multiply by 8 to assure a recommended pressure tank size.

NOTE: A proper size pressure tank and/or retention tank can be the key to successfully removing sulfur gas and iron. You will not save money by skimping on pressure or retention tank size, (40 gallon retention tanks are most common), a Dynamixer can save floor space as well as install time, also called an oxymixer.


1. Your ECOsmarte® Control Valve marked "City" must be installed on the tank nearest the home (this tank will contain the carbon). You should set this to backwash one day per week, every 1500- 3000 gallons.(has no relay)

2. Your ECOsmarte® Control Valve marked "Well" must be installed on the tank containing one cube Hydroxite. This valve will generate greater down flow and backwash, normally every 400 gallons.(Has turbine to control box connection).

3. You should stagger backwash times by at least two hours to avoid unfiltered iron from hitting the carbon tank during backwash. Units should not backwash during outdoor irrigation hours. Irrigation systems may require dedicated filter tanks, which may require an additional charge.


For ease of handling and installation it is sometimes preferable to load and fill tanks at the location.

These are procedures to follow:

1. Tape top of distributor tube, to prevent media from entering. If media gets into the distributor tube it will plug up the backwash valve causing poor or no water to flow.

2. Center distributor tube with a 1/6 to 1/8-inch maximum extension above the top of the tank.

3. With optional fill funnel hold tube centered and install clean and washed pea gravel. This should cover the base of the distributor tube by 2 to 3 inches minimum (Pre-measured, larger stone first). The base gravels are identical in each tank.

4. Check to make sure that the tape at the top of the distributor tube is not damaged.

5. Option: Additional coarse sand or Filter-ag. Up to an additional 2 gallons of coarse sand can be added to improve clarity and filtration for waters that have high turbidity caused by silt or other particles in the water. This is unique to certain areas North America

6. Add your premeasured Hydroxite™ to the tank nearest the well, followed by your activated carbon to the tank nearest the home. Caution should be used as the fine media easily gets all over the floor. .

 Recommendation: use masks when filling, your packaging has been premeasured for volume. 

7. After adding media clean top of the tanks and threads, making sure all particulate is wiped clear.

8)  Check and remove tape and clean the top of the distributor tube.

9. Move tank close to the area of installation and fill with water. For first time installers: Tank should sit for 24 hours to let the media settle and expand. Air trapped in the filter can force small amounts of carbon into the water supply at start-up of system.


1. After positioning tank, lubricate the distributor tube o-ring seal and tank o-ring seal. The 1" distributor tube should be cut flush with the top of each tank.

2. Place the main control valve on tank. Note: Only use silicon lubricant

3. Keep timer head straight when screwing on tank, as this will pull the distributor tube through the o-ring.

4. Place ECOsmarte® Control Valve in by-pass position. Turn on main water supply. Open a cold water tap nearby and let run a few minutes or clear. Close water tap.

5. Place ECOsmarte® Control Valve in service position and let water flow into the tanks. When water flow stops, slowly open a cold water tap nearby and let run until air is purged from unit.

6. Plug unit into an electrical outlet and set timer.

7. The in-service dial (with faceplate removed) will rotate for one hour and forty-five minutes, but the entire backwash cycle is completed in approximately the first fifteen minutes.

8. Recommended backwash interval is once every week on the carbon tank and 300 to 500 gallons on the metered hydroxite tank. Set time 2 hours earlier on the GAC to stagger the backwash, on the one day per week they both backwash.

Filter Tank Installation Setup

1. Position your filled tank where it will be permanently located.

2. Take measurements for plumbing configuration, and actual length of drain hose required.

3. The bypass valve can be separated from the valve body by removing the two screws and “U” clips, to allow the tank to be pulled out for  easier installation.

4. Either PVC or copper pipe and fittings should be used and precut and fitted.

5. Unions and shut-off's should be considered to allow bypass and servicing of equipment 


6. Shut off main water supply and install.


Chlorinated water should run through each faucet, hot and cold to accelerate removal of dust and oxidize solder residues. It is not unusual to see debris in your water for 7 - 21 days. Run faucet 5 seconds before drinking. 1 Gallon of household bleach per 50 feet well depth is required, with filters in bypass to "bleach" plumbing lines.


1. ECOsmarte® Control Valves and Point-of-Entry control box may plug into the same outlet; they are both 110V (Total of 3 Plug-ins Required).

2. The thin clear wires from the Point-of-Entry control box and the wires from the ECOsmarte® Control Valve nearest the well must be connected and comes prewired, to activate the system when water flows. The valve sensor is designed to regulate current from the control box to your electrodes.

3. The grey wires from the ECOsmarte control box connect to the COPPER electrode chamber. The voltage Power wire from the ECOsmarte control box is a double wire and can be split and cut and fit as desired. The thicker, low-voltage cable connects to the valve sensor, and comes prewired. Connect your 10' jumper wire from the copper to the titanium chamber.

4. There is a circle of red lights on the control box. The valve turbine activates the circling lights. Approximately every 1 to 2 minutes the lights will reverse direction. The change in direction indicates a polarity reversal that induces self cleaning of the electrodes. The lights must be on to indicate the system is operating. A light circles when a faucet is opened. A single light indicates power available to the system.

Start Up

1)  Before allowing the water to flow through the Point-of-Entry system, the bypass valve on the back of the water valve should be in the "By Pass" position.

2)  Turn main water supply on. Check fittings and installation for any leaks. Run water in each faucet, flush toilets to remove air from lines

3)  Turn off your hot water Inlet valve before beginning your first backwash.

4. Manually backwash the system by turning the timer head. Do not open a faucet until the backwash is complete and runs clear water. Using the faucet nearest the unit, open and run until clear.

5. Turn on a faucet nearest the Point-of-Entry system. This will allow water to flow through the Point-of-Entry system when the valve is in service. This will minimize air bubbles and activated carbon in the pipes.

6. From the nearest faucet, run the hot water until clear. If nearest faucet is “down-line” from water heater, drain hot water heater, and flush with hose level pressure

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